Baju Kurung is used to refer to the Malay traditional clothing in which the two malay words are combined to literally mean ‘concealed’ or ‘enclosed garment’. This is an alternative term that is used to refer to the general Malay clothing. The earliest reference to the clothing term was ‘Baju Melayu’.
The baju kurung is traditionally worn in Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore, parts of Indonesia, southern Philippines, and Southern Thailand. Particularly in Malaysia, baju kurung is one of the oldest Malay clothing styles. In present day Singapore, baju kurung is still used to refer to traditional outfits but in modern Malaysia, baju kurung is used to refer to the female’s outfit, whereas baju melayu is used to distinguish it from the men’s outfit.
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It is believed that the Malay people used to wear kemban (cloth worn wrapped around the torso) and sarong (large tube or length of fabric wrapped around the waist) based on descriptions found in early literature. It can be said that the strong Islamic influence transformed the early Malay clothing styles according to Islamic values. It can also be said that Malay costumes were initiated during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Shah. The clothing style was derived and influenced by costumes of other countries such as Arab, China, India, Yemen, and Persia.
The term baju kurung was supposedly coined by Temenggung Tun Hasan during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Shah, in correlation to the rise of the Melaka Sultanate. Explanations on the customs and principles of baju kurung can be found in various Malay literary classics. As described in the Hikayat Hang Tuah, the ceremonial dress for Malay men was called lima persalinan (five clothing parts). The five parts consist of the baju (garment), seluar (bottom), destar (headgear), sebai (sash), and kain samping (waist).
Based on the past existing design, Temenggung Tun Hassan introduced a more loose-fitting shape and lengthened the sleeves during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Shah. This clothing style was then spread through ‘Malayisation’ of the region. Whereas the Melakan style of dressing in Malay society was popularised again during the reign of Abu Bakar of Johor including the modernization of Malay clothing style.
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Baju Kurung Telok Blangah or Baju Kurung Johor is an elegant style of baju kurung, named after the former capital of Johor. The design consists of a shortened hem of the shirt to the back, three pockets and a round neckline with a short slit opening down the front. This style has no collar and the neckline is stitched in various forms of embroidery known as mata lalat, tulang belut or insang pari. This design is loose and well-suited for tropical climates. It is also considered as one of the standard traditional baju kurung.
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Baju Kurung Cekak Musang has the same cut as the Telok Blangah style but with a standing collar split and five buttons at the neck. This style is more oftenly used for formal occasions such as weddings. It is said that this style of Baju Kurung is believed to have received influence from India and China.
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Baju Kurung Pahang also known as Baju Kurung Riau-Pahang is distinguished by its bigger and longer cut. As for the bottom, it is matched with a sarung design that is tied by the waist, giving it a more classic and elegant look. This style reveals the historical relationship between the two Malay states of Riau and Pahang. Compared to the standard baju kurung, the Pahang style has a Cekak Musang collar with seven or nine buttons.
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Baju Kurung Kedah originated from the northern state of Peninsula Malaysia and has a styling resemblance to shirt blouses worn in southern Thailand. As compared to the other baju kurung designs, the cutting is shorter and looser and usually matched with kain batik for the bottom. The neckline is round without a collar and often used as daily wear as it is light and comfortable.
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Baju Kurung Pesak is one of the most popular styles till present day. Pesak refers to the additional piece of fabric that is added to the side of the top garment to make the garment more comfortable and flexible. There are two types of pesak namely, pesak gantung and pesak lepas. Its design is loose and long, often worn with a sarong that is tied by the waist. This design gives the wearer an elegant appearance while maintaining simplicity and modesty.
As the fashion world continues to evolve with various trends, the traditional baju kurung remains relevant so let’s take a look at how the design has changed over the years.
The popular styles that were considered the classic baju kurung during this time were the Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga and Baju Kurung Cekak Musang. The lengths of top garments for these two styles were varied but generally just below the knee.
From 1960 onwards, there were many changes made to the cuts and shapes to the garment which brought about the name of mini kurung and modern baju kurung. During this era, Saloma, a legendary singer and fashion icon created a new Malay garment called baju Saloma. This became the most fashionable wear that many requested their tailors to follow. It was also during this era where Songket was brought into the mainstream market
With the focus on reviving the batik industries, baju kurung was frequently made with batik fabrics. During this era, the baju kurung shrunk in length, gaining the name ‘Mini Kurung’. This particular garment was cut and designed using western pattern and shaped to be more body fitting.
Through the wide exposure of films and media, society is introduced to screen icons. This brought about the simplification of the Malay dress to suit the changing surroundings and lifestyle. The traditional baju kurung would include embellishments with sequins and beads on the sleeves and the hemline.
Around 2005, designers began to reinvent the baju kurung silhouette to be more glamorous. Some of the new trends include sleeve types such as bishop sleeves, flared sleeves with cuffs, and gathered sleeves.
One of the more known baju kurung trends that is popular with the younger crowd is the peplum top. This kurung peplum changes the length of the top from being calf-length to upper hip length.
As the baju kurung has gone through changes over the years. Perhaps this year we will see more elevated looks of the traditional baju kurung. Based on the already timeless silhouette of the baju kurung made with unique fabric or accessories such as the selendang.
Overall, baju kurung comes in a variety of fabric and patterns which makes it a versatile clothing choice. With innovations made in the fashion industry, the baju kurung has become more appealing for the younger generation without losing its traditional values. The traditional baju kurung is not just a piece of clothing but a symbol of a rich and meaningful culture.
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